Walking into any salon, it’s easy to see why the allure of long-lasting, glossy nails draws so many. These days, the colorful polish on display isn’t just a matter of style—science plays a big part. Hydroxypropyl methacrylate (HPMA) often shows up on the back of bottles labeled “gel,” “builder,” or “acrylic.” It helps create that hard, shiny finish that refuses to chip for weeks. For folks who work with their hands or want a manicure that goes the distance, that sounds good. But plenty of us don’t realize what sits in the formula.
Manufacturers prize these ingredients for their staying power and the strong shells they create over natural nails. HPMA acts sort of like super glue in these coatings. It provides the toughness expected from a salon job, keeping the look intact through plenty of handwashing, typing, and even gardening. Without a chemical like HPMA, the polish would start peeling much sooner, leaving customers and salons frustrated.
Trouble shows up for people with sensitive skin. Stories pop up on Reddit and Instagram where users show red, blistered, or peeling skin around their nails. My own sister found out the hard way—an itchy rash took over her fingertips after getting her nails done before a big event. Dermatologists have started to notice a rise in allergic reactions tied to methacrylates. The American Contact Dermatitis Society even named acrylates “Allergen of the Year” in recent memory. Studies published in journals like Contact Dermatitis show that allergy cases have climbed as nail products using chemicals like HPMA grab a bigger share of the market.
Many people head into salons and trust that professionals know what’s safe. But label reading helps more than most folks think—especially if someone has a history of allergies to adhesives or plastics. In the EU, strict labeling lets most shoppers spot chemical allergens. In North America, the task often falls on the customer to ask questions. HPMA won’t make everyone break out in a rash, but enough do end up with problems that simple caution makes sense—especially since symptoms sometimes only crop up after months or years of use.
Big brands started looking at alternative formulas once reports of reactions picked up. Some gel systems boast “hypoallergenic” labels, but not every claim holds up under scrutiny. Certified hypoallergenic options remove HPMA and similar substances—though the trade-off can mean less durability. Meanwhile, some techs wear upgraded gloves and offer patch testing before using new products. Awareness in nail schools rose, and trade groups share best practices for handling and disposal.
Better labeling, honest product testing, and open communication go a long way. More research into non-irritating ingredients gives nail lovers hope for both beauty and safety. At home, taking breaks between manicures and choosing soak-off gels instead of hard gels can also cut down on risk. For anyone who’s ever stared at a bottle and wondered what’s inside, a little information makes all the difference between a feel-good look and weeks of discomfort.
